Fluffy egg stuff

Old stains in my mother’s tattered cookbook remind me of the cooking adventures of my younger self. Smears of chocolate meant I was hoping that a batch of fudge would be neither a grainy rock nor a syrupy mess, but perfectly set squares of deliciousness. Butter smudges meant the apples were ripe and I needed a reminder of the proportions for mixing the perfect crumb crust for apple crisp. Daubs of cake batter meant I was making a spice cake for my sister’s birthday, or a gingerbread to warm the cold months of winter.

Looking through this book recently, I began to feel a little bit embarrassed--was I really that sugar-obsessed as a teenager? Then I came upon a more main course flurry of stains and recalled that not everything I cooked was for dessert. In this instance, it was a well-used recipe for Cheese Souffle.

This particular layer of archaeological staining was laid down in my International Phase of culinary exploits. Fueled by my discovery in the Marathon County library of a Time-Life “Cooking of …” series, I subjected my family to a round-the-world tour at the supper table.

“The Cooking of Scandinavia” had them gnawing open-faced sandwiches and Danish pastry. My Dad was the only one who cared for pickled herring. This was disappointing, as pickled herring seemed to figure large in Scandinavian cuisine.

“Russian Cooking” introduced little buckwheat pancakes with sour cream (blini) and herbed beef in pastry (pirozhki). Georgian Cheese Bread is still a part of family feasts, delicious and decorative with its golden, knotted crust enclosing soft melted cheese.

I must confess that “Cooking of the British Isles” produced mostly failed experiments: the flat and rubbery mess that was my attempt at Yorkshire Pudding and Toad in the Hole that was no more inspiring than its name. Then my mother demurred at spending half the grocery budget on a standing rib roast. The pickled onions, though, were nearly edible.

After perusing “The Cooking of Italy,’’ my brother’s clean-up duties were particularly harsh, involving the aftereffects of making pasta, tomato sauce, cream sauce and meat filling for homemade cannelloni. That and it took all day to get the job done, which kind of landed it in the category of things that were tasty, but still not good enough to be worth the effort.

I was fascinated by the pastries of “Vienna’s Empire,” but could never master the Sachertorte. My chocolate sponge was stodgy and the mirror glaze was dull and gritty. The only bright spot was the apricot jam filling. Which came from a jar.

Then there was “The Cooking of Provincial France,” with a regal cheese souffle depicted in all its golden-crusted glory on the front cover. My teenage ego was engaged — I must make that cheese souffle. And I did! Then I did it again. Then I made a lovely chocolate souffle. When the book had to be returned to the library, I discovered that my mother’s old “Joy of Cooking” had a perfectly sound souffle recipe, and for a brief moment this classic of French cuisine became a staple of a Wisconsin family’s menu.

It had been forty years since my teenage culinary enthusiasms, but I decided to give cheese souffle another try. It turned out perfectly once again — light and creamy inside with a buttery, crusty exterior. Tom referred to it as “that fluffy egg stuff”. I live with un barbare.

Cheese Souffle

Butter and flour a straight-sided baker, round 10-inch or equivalent.

Melt in a double boiler: until stiff: ½ cup butter 8 egg whites Add:

½ cup flour 1 ½ teaspoons salt ½ teaspoon paprika Stir in:

2 cups milk Fold the cheese sauce into the egg whites. Pour the mixture into the baker. This mixture may be refrigerated for up to three hours, if you want to make it ahead. If refrigerated, let it sit at room temperature for about 20 minutes before baking. Bake 10 minutes at 475°. Reduce heat to 400° and bake 25 minutes longer. Serve immediately. If you want to continue the French theme, serve with a baguette and Salad Nicoise. Bon Appetit!

Stir constantly until the sauce is thick. Add: ½ lb. grated sharp cheddar cheese Stir until the cheese is melted. Remove from heat.

In a separate bowl beat until light: 8 egg yolks

Pour yolks into cheese sauce, stirring constantly. Wash the beaters, then beat

Sally Rasmussen lives in rural Taylor County with her husband, Tom.